How to Remove a Stripped Screw: 4 Easy Methods for DIYers

It's one of the worst feelings in DIY. You're giving that final turn to a screw, and suddenly... click-skrrr-click. The screwdriver spins, the screw stays put, and the metal inside the screw head grinds away into a useless, smooth crater.

Your project is now at a complete standstill, all thanks to one stubborn, stripped screw.

Don't panic, and definitely don't keep trying to use the same screwdriver—you'll only make it worse. We've all been there. Here is your rescue guide, starting with the simplest hacks and moving up to the pro-level fixes.

First, Stop and Assess

Look at the screw. Is the head raised above the surface of the wood or metal? Or is it flush (countersunk)? The answer determines which method you should try first.

Method 1: The Rubber Band Trick (The Easiest Fix)

This is the classic "I can't believe that worked" hack. It's perfect for screws that are only partially stripped and works surprisingly often. The rubber adds the extra grip your screwdriver needs to bite into the damaged metal.

Best for: Partially stripped Phillips or flathead screws.

Find a wide rubber band (the kind used for broccoli or mail is perfect). Don't use a thin, tiny one, as it will just rip.

Lay the rubber band flat over the top of the stripped screw head.

Press your screwdriver down hard into the screw, on top of the rubber band.

Turn the screwdriver slowly (don't use a drill). The extra pressure and the rubber's grip should be just enough to catch the edges and turn the screw.

Pro-Tip: If you don't have a rubber band, a piece of a latex glove, duct tape (sticky side up), or even a bit of steel wool can also work.

Method 2: The Pliers Method (The Brute Force Fix)

This method is all about raw grip. If the screw head is even slightly raised above the surface, this is your new first choice.

Best for: Any stripped screw where you can get a grip on the outside of the head.

Get a strong pair of locking pliers (also known as Vise-Grips). Regular pliers might slip, but locking pliers will bite down and not let go.

Adjust the jaws to be just slightly smaller than the screw head.

Clamp the pliers down onto the outside of the screw head as tightly as you possibly can.

With the pliers locked on, slowly twist the entire tool counter-clockwise. Don't try to rip it out; just turn it as if the pliers were your new screwdriver handle. The screw should break free.

Method 3: The Dremel Method (Create a New Path)

If the screw head is stripped and flush with the surface, you're in a tough spot. You can't grip it with pliers. So, the next best thing is to create a new groove for a different tool.

Best for: Flush, countersunk screws that are hopelessly stripped.

Grab a rotary tool (like a Dremel) with a thin metal cut-off wheel.

Put on safety glasses. This is not optional. The wheel will send tiny metal sparks flying.

Carefully and slowly, press the spinning cut-off wheel into the center of the stripped screw head.

Cut a straight, deep line (a "slot") all the way across the screw head.

Congratulations, you just turned your useless Phillips-head screw into a flathead screw.

Use a large flathead screwdriver to press into your new groove and back the screw out.

Method 4: The Last Resort (The Screw Extractor)

This is the nuclear option, the "get-this-thing-out-no-matter-what" solution. A screw extractor is a specialized bit with reverse-cutting threads. It's designed to bite into the screw as you turn it counter-clockwise, grabbing it tighter and tighter until it twists out.

Best for: Screws that are broken, deeply set, or have resisted every other method.

You'll need a Screw Extractor Set, which comes with multiple sizes, and a drill.

Select a "drill" bit from the kit (or a standard drill bit) that is slightly smaller than the stripped-out part of the screw.

Drill a shallow pilot hole directly into the center of the stripped screw head. This gives the extractor something to grab.

Insert the "extractor" bit into your drill and set the drill to REVERSE.

Push the extractor bit down into the pilot hole you just drilled.

Run the drill slowly in reverse. The extractor's threads will bite into the screw, lock on, and then (with a bit of luck) twist the entire screw out.

This is the most satisfying fix of all.